Is Microdermabrasion Worth the Hype? Dermatologists Explain the Cosmetic Treatment (2024)

When your go-to skincare products leave you with a lackluster complexion you might want to consider microdermabrasion. A popular, non-invasive cosmetic procedure (like dermaplaning and microneedling), the powerful treatment claims to help you attain smoother, brighter skin.

Microdermabrasion is a fairly simple in-office cosmetic treatment that involves physical exfoliation of the skin and helps address concerns like uneven tone and texture, age spots, a dull complexion, and fine lines.

Ahead, experts share everything you need to know about microdermabrasion, including how it works, the benefits, side effects, cost, and more.

“Microdermabrasion is a procedure that offers physical exfoliation to the skin,” explains Joshua Zeichner, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at the Mount Sinai Medical Center in NYC. “A device is used to manually remove dead cells from the outer skin layer.” The device works by using fine exfoliating particles, such as crystal or diamond dust, which give the tool a gritty surface.

Your dermatologist or aesthetician will start the treatment on clean skin, free from dirt or makeup. “The tip of the device is pushed against the skin with mild pressure to physically remove dead cells. The device typically has a donut appearance, with a central opening connected to a suction device to remove the dead skin cells and debris,” Dr. Zeichner says. “The entire procedure typically takes around 20 minutes to perform, depending on the number of passes performed over the skin.”

The treatment is considered non-invasive—Dr. Zeichner even dubs it a “lunchtime treatment,” meaning that generally most patients can resume their daily activities immediately after their appointment with little to no signs that they had anything done.

There are also three main types of microdermabrasion, and your provider can you help you determine which is right for you. These include:

Diamond tip microdermabrasion

Diamond tip microdermabrasion uses a handpiece that is coated with diamond dust particles that creates “a strong, but gentle exfoliating surface,” Dr. Zeicher says. This treatment is great for addressing hard to reach areas and offers the provider maximum control as they can vary pressure and suction strength.

Crystal microdermabrasion

This microdermabrasion technique uses a “sandblasting” technology via crystals (usually made of aluminum salts) to create the exfoliating effect, explains Dr. Zeichner. The vacuum then removes both dead skin cells as well as the crystals. Crystal microdermabrasion can offer a “deeper treatment,” according to Zeichner, but also may be more irritating and offers less precision.

Hydradermabrasion

Hydradermabrasion, also known as a hydrafacial treatment, is a combination treatment that offers the same exfoliation one might expect from a diamond tip or crystal microdermabrasion, as well as a skin infusion treatment. These infusions of solutions “contain active ingredients like antioxidants for added anti-aging benefits,” Dr. Zeichner explains.

“Microdermabrasion is a versatile procedure that can address various skin concerns and promote healthier-looking skin,” explains Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology in New York. “It is generally safe for all skin types and can be an excellent option for those seeking a non-invasive way to improve their complexion and address specific skin issues.” Dr. Levin notes that the main benefits of microdermabrasion may include:

• A smoother and brighter complexion
• More even skin tone and texture
• Improved appearance of age spots and dark spots
• A reduction in fine lines and wrinkles
• Enhanced penetration of skincare products

While experts agree that microdermabrasion is a very safe cosmetic treatment with minimal risk, you may experience some side effects. These are usually limited to “slight swelling or sunburn-like symptoms,” such as redness, Dr. Levin notes. These post-treatment side effects usually subside within a few days.

To avoid more significant side effects, you’ll want to make sure to consult with a board-certified dermatologist to determine if microdermabrasion is suitable for you. Those with active acne, rosacea, eczema, other inflammatory skin conditions, or a compromised skin barrier should avoid microdermabrasion as it can aggravate these conditions, according to Dr. Levin.

Minimal preparation is required before a microdermabrasion treatment, but you’ll want to ensure your skin is both cleansed and well-hydrated prior to your appointment (the same goes for afterward, too.) Make sure to fully cleanse the skin beforehand and use a hydrating moisturizer in the days leading up to the treatment.

After the procedure, maintain a gentle skincare routine including a cleanser and moisturizer. It is also important to apply sunscreen daily (at least SPF 30) afterward, to protect the newly exfoliated skin from sun damage, Dr. Levin explains.

The idea of a gritty tool being used on your face may seem painful, but most patients and providers agree that at most, the procedure is merely uncomfortable. However, everyone’s pain tolerance is different.

It’s also important to note that microdermabrasion is a non-invasive treatment that works only on the outer layer of the skin, so pain should be minimal. If you feel pain during your procedure, be sure to let your provider know.

Ultimately it depends. “The cost of microdermabrasion can vary depending on the provider, location, and the number of sessions needed,” Dr. Levin explains. “On average, a single session may cost between $100 to $400.” Again, this will depend on your location and other factors.

..